Trip to Sin-kang,Lai-sia, Oct. 8th-26th, 1872










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October, 1872

Tues. 8.

Left Tamsui(淡水) with A Hoa(阿華,嚴清華) and Walked barefooted down the usual road to Tiong-lek(中壢), there we sung hymns and preached.

Wed 9

The day was lovely and we went on to Tek-chham(竹塹,今新竹 .

Sin-kang新港 first trip (time)

Thurs 10.

Very early went out through many streets distributing Commandment Sheets etc. After which we went our usual way till near Au-lang(後龍), then turned towards the hills and by following a winding path We came at last to a Sek-hoan (civilized aborigines熟番) village. No one was willing to put us up for the night at last a large man who reminded me very much of a big boned Highlander took us in. The villages Seemed to be preparing for something ,feast etc. --    I was told in due time that they would be feasting or making offerings to their ancestors for three days, beginning in the morning and that no Chinaman was ever allowed inside the gates during that time and that I as a stranger must not stay. I said that it was our intention to spend several days. The man who ventured at first to give us lodgings turned somewhat friendly. A while after dark I received a letter written in Chinese to the following effect. " You Foreign devil with your disciple must either leave here tomorrow morning by day-break or stay in the house for three days as we are going to make offering to our ancestors etc. .      I replied "We the worshippers of the True God will do neither, but will proclaim His doctrine for Several days. We do you no harm, We truly come to do you good.” In a few moments there were loud voices heard approaching. Soon grew louder and louder, but not come nearer. Till long in the night the whole village seemed to be up, prowling about in wild excitement.

 Fri. 11.

Early in the morning we went out and saw the people sitting in groups here and there with little heaps of stones, hard earth etc. beside them. Some were inside engaged in their offerings. Those outside had eyes full of anger and rage.  We passed quite near many of them and noticed a strong young man greatly excited at last he threw a stone which passed my head. We Walked on, made our round and Went into the house.  Nothing more was thrown. After breakfast we went out again and dropped some Commandment Sheets as we went, then selected a clean spot and sung " I am not ashamed " A few came near, we read and sung " Life is uncertain" then returned to the house and found a number inside, hotly going over the situation. We succeeded in quieting them and in giving them some information. Towards eve. We Walked through all the Streets, then sung a hymn. Thirty or Forty listened rather attentively. In the eve. We had a good chance to Speak about our Mission there etc.

Sat 12.

We Were out singing hymns very early. The people did not look so angry. A few Spoke to us. so we Spent the day similar to Friday.

Sun 13.

I preached and fully fifty listened and in the eve. Eighty assembled and we had a very interesting time talking and answering questions etc.

Lai-sia(內社. South Formosa ch.

Mon. 14.

Before dawn we moved along barefooted amongst rice fields, over beds of stones and through mountain streams and soon got up on a table-land and went along in great glee. Going through towns and villages We Sung hymns and preached the Gospel. At 4 P.M. We received a warm hearty reception from the poor people. We preached in the eve. and sat up till very late.--

Tues. 15.

Making an early start and some brethren going with us we were at Toa-sia大社)in the afternoon. I spoke about the Sower etc.

Wed. 16.

Returned by the same road to Lai-sia內社) was told Dr. Dickson from the south would come.

Dickson & Campbell

Thurs. 17.

Wandered all around the village and away up the mountains close by. Morning and eve. preached and talked for hours with the people--


Dr. Dickson(德馬太醫生) arrived and we had a very pleasant time together talking over our first trip there etc. etc.

Sat. 20.

I took one service and Dickson the other, then we got the children together and heard them sing for hours-  -

Mon. 21.

Rev. W. Campbell(甘為霖) came. So We had quite a refreshing time there together day and night

amongst the Warm hearted PiN-po-hoan.(平埔番) Lovely weather .

Tues. 22.

We all went away inland along a winding valley and were told to turn back at once as we were an dangerous ground being near the savages of the Woods--

Wed 23.

We bade each other farewell after the Singing of a hymn and A-Hoa and Myself Made for Sin-kang(新港) where we arrived at 4 P.M. Good meeting in the eve. People ashamed of the way they treated us at first-  Of course many Still remained our enemies; but a good Number drew toward us and were very friendly-- Quite a number of old men sat up till late that night asking questions about all sorts of things and said what we taught was really the doctrine their fathers held.

       Tek-chhaim Inn

Thurs 24.

Started at Cock-crowing and was soon overtaken with rain. Drenched wet we trudged along barefooted with trowser legs rolled up to the knees and early in the afternoon were in Tek-chham in the best Inn. We could find. In front was a very narrow street and entering from it we first went through a low room with some(a quantity of) boards, lumber etc. and an old man with spectacles making some boxes etc. -- Going through a narrow door we came to a still narrower passage dark as midnight,  then when we emerged a pig sty showed itself to our left and a large puddle of dirty stinking water on our right. A room about twenty feet square appeared Just before us, so We walked in followed by an immense crowd. There were several beds made by putting planks on blocks around the walls. Wood as well as stone was used for pillows. I soon got water to have my accustomed wash or bath before changing clothes. It was in a bucket with a piece of wood across the top for a handle.. I found that the only place practicable was to go out a hole (not door) at the back and there in a space two feet and a half wide and six feet long with a necessary at one end stand under the down pouring rain with my clothes stuck in a hole take some water with my hands and make the best of it. That being done and now reentering I was in my room. It opened from the big(large) one and had a door two feet in Width by five in height. As that door was opened the room looked dark as midnight. Not a solitary article could be seen inside through it was the daytime. A lamp made out of

amboo with the pith of a kind of grass and pea-nut oil was brought in. It revealed a bed made of Sundried bricks for legs. Split bamboo for mattress and a block of wood for Pillow also that a (stinking bucket of urine which was horrible. I was on the point of vomiting several times. Now coolies with their burdens were coming into the big room fast. Shouting, garruling and reviling they were putting their effects away for the night. Being cloudy and the rain still pouring down all hurried through with their rice eating. Then stretched themselves evidently with much relish to have the ‘soporific’ pipe. Opium smell in right down earnest so sat supreme and bade all other smells of the time being to be silent. Now Many are under its influence and the tongues as matter of course loosened. I went into my room after taking some rice and Slept none. All night long had to listen to the vilest language that ever fell from heathen lips. Gambling, smoking, singing songs, Shouting, quarrelling and at last fighting kept on till day-break. I was up.  A Hoa soon turned out of his den a Sleepless fellow too. We did not wait for food, but made up our minds that it would be better to go right under the rain than remain . So after singing a hymn and rolling up our trowser legs we went out onto the street and hurried on.

Fri 25.

Rain pouring down and the wind blowing fiercely against us we pressed on over table- land and through rushing Streams and at 4:30 P.M. Stepped into the comparatively Splendid inn at Tiong-lek(中壢).

A) space of only two feet was between it and the wall. There was no table- no wash-basin-- no floor. The Slippery black, damp earth, here and there covered with mould was the floor. I sat therefore on the bed and made observations. The dirty, rough muddy walls were covered cobwebs, dust and Smoke from other rooms--Under the bed were old rotten grass sandals thrown there by coolies who took all the wear out of them and now with mould long and grey like feathers.          There too was a Tiong-lek Inn

With bed-rooms similar to Tek-chham some larger indeed; but Still Chinese style there were additional things which made it quite a palace comparatively. In the back there was more room  and an open court with a good sized room facing it, the front being open, therefore light as day. There were two bamboo chairs, several benches, a nice little arrangement for cooking in one corner. Several bedrooms opening from it etc. so that during rain or sun shine, One could sit there and not be exposed and also have plenty of light and air. Indeed the luxury of a table was beside the wall. We could write, read, converse or do any thing of that kind there. Still all the floors were Just the bare earth and big black pigs, fowls etc. moved about our feet continually.

        Tan He

Sat 26.

Dark and rainy as we moved out off the Inn was the morning. With a very strong wind in our faces-- No umbrellas could be kept up so I tied a handkerchief about my head and pressed northwards and in the eve. we were in Tam-sui(淡水)  -- My little house packed at eve. service--