Mackay visit Kabaran, Apr. 26-30, 1875










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[摘要1875年4月26-30日馬偕巡視噶瑪蘭, 領事官阿倫(H.J.Allen) 同行 ]

1875.04.26 Mon.

Up before daybreak and had breakfast and then set out, our party consisting of A Hoa阿華(嚴清華), Theng陳雲騰, Hong-tek陳芳德(, Lien Ho連和, Chhoa Seng蔡生. Hong-tek芳德 was my burden bearer. the rest Preachers -- The Consul (領事官阿倫H.J.Allen) and one bearer --

All of us (we) were barefooted(赤腳) except the Consul who kept his shoes on. We did not walk fast nor did we keep to any particular path -- We examined rocks - trees, huts, tea fields etc etc -- The Consuls feet got sore and at Chhim-khiN-a深坑仔 a small collection of houses in the hills we tried to get (procure)a Sedan-chair for him-- They laughed at us-- Sneered at the idea that he was Consul, he even sent his card but it was returned so after taking some rice we had nothing to do but go on and at length came to Chio-teng石碇-- Thirty dollars were wanted a day for a Sedan chair and the money to be paid first. Again the people would not believe this Foreigner on foot with barefooted fellows could be the Leng-su-koaN(Consul領事官). I pitied him, his feet were swollen and too tender to walk without Shoes at the same time I admired his Celtic pluck-- He Jumped up and hobbled on ; but first he took the name above the door of Sedan-chair Shop-- Up hill and down we kept at it until arriving at Chho-khiN -- When quite near we met an empty Chair; but the bearers were hurrying home so poor Allen had a time of it---We sat down amidst the mountains fully 20 li (nearly 7 miles) to the next collection of houses. So we left Allen sitting and went to the only house in Sight to ask if we could stay for the night-- The house was nothing more than a small grass hut. The owner at last yielded and said if we could put up anywhere he would have no objections. Soon Consul and all were Squatted around the door. It was getting dark, and threatened rain—(( From SaN-teng-po三重埔 to Chio-teng石碇=25 li and from there to Chho-khiN (粗坑which literally means "rough valley) 25 li, making 50 li or as we travelled fully 17 (20) miles))-- we were truly within the mountains, for they Stood round us like towering Forts. Some rice was cooked for our party and when about through eating down came a heavy Shower of rain which drove us inside where there was not much room to begin with; but now every foot was occupied. A Tauist priest had the centre going through numerous incantations, with gong beatings etc. to cure one of the family lying sick in an outer room. How the Parents of the sick boy apparantly believe in Such absurdities!--- Near Midnight Places were Shown us where our weary limbs might find some rest. The Consul got a sort of bed made of sticks near the oxstable. The place was covered; but not well closed in -- My "Sleeping room." was beside the Pig pen. The rest were packed away in available corners.---The Thunders rolled lightenings flashed and a storm in dead reality burst over and around us. I first Shifted hither and thither, then gave up all idea of Sleep and sat up in a corner crouched till sometime before day-break then called out for our Party to wake up. ---- Soon every one was ready to tell his last night's experiences. Allen's was similar to my own. The rest were no better and no worse off. We had more rain, they more living creatures to deal with.-- We soon started after bidding the kind Mountaineer good bye.

1875.04.27 Tues.

With grass and trees all wet so we too were like "drowned rats". Passing over Steep ranges, we went along the side of one which was Sandstone there and rising right above deep water(precipitous). It seemed very dangerous; but we were hastening on and passed through a small collection of houses called "O-Thang. a distance of 20 li, nearly Seven miles--- There we took some food, halted a while and pressed on. It was not long until from a lofty Peak we descried the sea- the Qcean- The Pacific away off and also nearly under our feet. Another descent amid stones and grass another ascent Steep and rough and now for our last Steep descent to the sea-side. I led now running -- now holding on to a rock-- now slowly moving and all the while some yelling that something happened. I sat on a large stone till all came up in a winding line. So with a shout we were off and halted not until sitting with our feet washing them in sea water. Then all cheerfully Jumped up and we were off on a run, some Singing our lovely hymns. We sat at a few small rice or eating Shops on the road-side; but made little delay. On and with the Ocean on our left all the way and visible also -- About dark we arrived at Thau-siaN a Chinese Town of considerable extent. We walked 30 li from O-thang to this place. After looking about we employed a boat i.e. river boat and it was a relief to sit down together after Such experiences for the Consul. He was good company and we chatted till past midnight. The boat moving on all the time. Befor dawn we were at the largest city in the Whole Plain, viz. SaN-kiet-a-koe distance by boat 35 li—

1875.04.28 Wed.

We took the Town by surprise coming in so early. About the middle of the city we came across a sort of Inn and soon were at work extracting teeth. The Consul sent his Card to the Head Mandarin and it was not long before a Messenger came with Presents of Ducks, Capons etc.. We could hardly get time to eat so eager was the crowd to press round for Medicines etc-- Allen worked famously-- We put boards on each side of the side-walk in front of the Inn and took in sick people at one end and put them out at the other.

PiN-po-hoan seen at SaN-Kiet-a-Koe

Our whole party were there Either extracting teeth or dispensing Medicines. and at times Speaking and singing hymns-- The Consul Pitched and would lend a hand at anything needed -- Thus the whole day was Spent. Scores of PiN-po-hoan were there amongst the crowds of Chinese. ---- Spent the night miserably in filthy dark rooms--- with horrible smell of Opium, Urine etc. Bed-bugs and fleas held high revel over us all. I only knew from experience my own misery though. The smell of bed-bugs is intorerable to me. Fleas are perfect imps; but somehow sort of clean folk. Really study to see so many Jumping about so lively--

1875.04.29 Thurs.

Made a very early start and were soon enough in midst of rice fields and on a Winding path of Mud, Slippery and sticky-- Many falls we had; but kept on and after noon we were at Ki-lek-kan(奇利簡.利澤簡). There took some rice then off again but on a good dry path. We made 30 li to that Place and 18 more to So-o (蘇澳)or So-bay which were gone over rapidly. On arriving a Military Mandarin came out and invited us into his Yamen(衙門). We only remained a short time then in the streets Preached, sang and dispensed some medicines and quick march returned to Ki-lek-kan where we entered a river boat to take us back to Thau-siaN頭城. Nearly all night we talked and laughed, sang and had a grand time.

First time Consul Allen barefooted.

1875.04.30 Fri.

Charming morning when we took some rice and set off on foot again by the sea. Coming to a nice level place along the sea where damp, fine sand lay we all ran and Jumped in the water, Shouting etc like children. It was too much for Allen’s Welsh blood to stand and not enjoy it, so for the first time in his life since grown up, off came shoes and stockings and he was throwing his heels up in the air. How happy we all were there ! Children again. Well, let long faces do as they like for me under such circumstances let my soul rejoice and enjoy, health, air, sea, sand, creeks, birds, lizards. About noon we were at Tai-li-kan 大里簡a distance of 30 li: at an eating hut rested an hour. Following the sea-side it was not long till we began to ascend a very high and steep range. On up though, now sitting on the pathway and now Shouting with our friend Allen blowing hard. still so plucky. At last on the top. Where we all either Stretched out on the grass or sat taking a view of the grand old Ocean and "Steep Island龜山島," in its bosom not far away. Then we pressed on winding round rocks, trees, shrubs, tall grasses, and over clear, gurgling Streams. Once more those in the lead waited for the rest amongst of whom was Mr. A. After a few minutes we hurried on a-head so as to secure a halting place which we were successful in doing then prepared food and waited for those behind to come up. So we had a chat after taking rice and each retired to such a dirty, dark, damp hole as he could stay in. Everyone wearied enough. We made 35 li from Tai-li-kan大里簡 to this Town Teng-siang-khoe頂雙溪 which is beautifully situated between the confluence of two streams --- Tea and sweet potatoes are grown right up to the back of the Town. In the valley Splendid rice grows and is so easily watered that for local use it remains cheap. The mountains round, high and bold are covered with tall grass; but plots are under cultivation.